Origin & History
Zari (from the Persian zari, meaning “gold”) is an ancient form of metallic thread embroidery that dates back to the Vedic period, gaining prominence during the Mughal era. It was originally made with real gold and silver threads and became a significant part of royal court attire.
Community & Practitioners
· Traditionally practiced by male Muslim karigars (artisans) known as Zardoz
Geographical Spread
·Surat (Gujarat) – hub of Zari thread production (real and imitation)
·Lucknow (Uttar Pradesh) – Zardozi (raised Zari work)
·Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh) – Banarasi sarees with woven Zari
·Hyderabad (Telangana) – bridal zardozi and borders
· Bhopal (Madhya Pradesh) and Chennai (Tamil Nadu) – known for regional adaptations
Techniques & Materials
- Types of Zari Work:
o Zardozi – elaborate hand embroidery with metallic threads on velvet, silk
o Kamdani – lighter, delicate zari with motifs like stars and flowers
o Gota Patti – appliqué work using zari ribbons (Rajasthan)
o Badla/Mukaish – flat metallic wire work embedded into fabric (Lucknow)
o Threads: Real gold/silver (traditional), now mostly metallic-coated polyester or copper threads
o Base fabrics: Silk, velvet, brocade, net, chiffon
- Stitches: Couching, stem, satin, chain, and filling stitches
- Tools: Aari (hook), frame (adda), specialized needles
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
Designers:Sabyasachi, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Falguni Shane Peacock, and Tarun Tahiliani feature Zari work in bridal couture
Cultural Significance & Variations
Motifs:Floral vines, paisleys, peacocks, lotus, Mughal jaali (mesh) patterns.