Origin & History:
Tissue sarees derive their name from the ultra-fine, sheer, and shimmering nature of the fabric, reminiscent of tissue paper. The origin of the craft is tied to Banaras (Varanasi) and South India (especially Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh), where master weavers specialized in blending zari with silk to achieve a delicate, gossamer-like drape. Historically worn by royalty and aristocrats, the earliest tissue sarees were woven in gold or silver zari, used as bridal and ceremonial wear.
Artisan Communities:
Banarasi weavers (Ansari and Hindu weaver communities) in Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. Kanjeevaram and Dharmavaram weavers in Tamil Nadu and Andhra Pradesh for South Indian tissue blends
Geographic Spread: Uttar Pradesh: Varanasi, Azamgarh. Tamil Nadu: Kanchipuram. Andhra Pradesh: Dharmavaram, Venkatagiri
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Selection & Zari Weaving: Warp and weft include zari threads (gold/silver-coated) blended with silk. The weaving technique involves creating a metallic base or overlay on soft silk
2. Jacquard or Handloom Weaving: Delicate motifs (floral, peacock, paisleys, geometric jaals) woven using jacquard or pit looms. Many use extra weft or brocade techniques to enrich texture
3. Finishing: Sarees are stiffened, polished, and calendared to enhance gloss and drape.
Notable Brands & Use:
Tilfi Banaras, Taneira, Raw Mango, Kankatala, and BharatSthali
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric:Blended fabric made of silk + metallic zari (gold/silver/copper). Sometimes mixed with cotton or organza for variety.
· Motifs: Traditional motifs like butis, floral creepers (bel), paisleys, lotuses, peacocks, diagonal jaals. Borders and pallus may feature temple or Mughal architecture
· Color Palette: Regal hues: gold, antique bronze, silver, rose gold, ivory, wine, emerald. Often contrasted with vibrant silks for borders