Origin & History:
Tangaliya weaving is a 700-year-old indigenous textile craft practiced by the Dangasia community in Saurashtra, Gujarat. Historically, it was created as a gifted textile for the Ahir (herding) community, especially during weddings and festivals. The name "Tangaliya" comes from the Gujarati word “Tangali,” meaning the dot-like patterns created by inserting extra threads into the weave. It is recognized as a Geographical Indication (GI) craft under Surendranagar district, Gujarat.
Artisan Communities:
Dangasia weavers,a Muslim artisan group of pastoral lineage. Collaborate with Rangrej dyers and Charmaliya embellishers.
Geographic Spread:
Main centers: Surendranagar, Wadhwan, Limbdi, Sayla, Jetpur. Also practiced in pockets of Rajkot and Jamnagar.
Technique & Process:
Yarn & Warp Setup: Usually cotton warp and wool or acrylic weft. Warp stretched on pit loom, prepared with local starch..
1. Dot (Bead) Inlay: Extra weft dots added by twisting contrasting colored thread (usually white or pink) around 3–4 warp threads before inserting regular weft. Dots create geometric and iconographic motifs like peacocks, elephants, diamonds, and dancing women
2. Rangrej Work: “Rangrej” (dyer) varieties are pre-dyed Tangaliya textiles in vibrant shades using natural or reactive dyes. Dyes include madder, indigo, turmeric, or modern azo-free colors
3. Charmaliya Work: “Charmaliya” textiles have embellishments with embroidery or small mirrors on the Tangaliya base.
Loom Type Used: Pit loom or horizontal handloom. Weavers sit in a dugout pit with treadles to operate shafts. Allows for manual dot-inlay work on warp and weft.
Materials & Motifs:
· Yarn: Cotton, acrylic, wool (traditional); Eri silk or blends (contemporary)
· Motifs: Dots (tangalio), rhomboids, chakras, peacocks, borders, and tribal patterns
· Colors: Black, maroon, indigo base with white/pink dot work
· Unique Effect: The “beaded” look on the fabric’s surface is tactile and visual.
Products Made: Modern adaptations: scarves, jackets, cushion covers. Design-led brands like Gaatha, Khamir, Soma Blockprints, and Okhai are innovating with Tangaliya in urban marke