Origin & History:
The Tanchoi weave is a luxurious silk weaving technique believed to have originated in China and brought to India by Parsi traders in the 19th century. The word Tanchoi is said to derive from the names of three Chinese brothers who taught the weaving to Indian artisans. This art was adopted and further refined in Banaras (Varanasi), where it became a symbol of elite taste, especially among Parsi, Gujarati, and Bengali elites.
Artisan Communities: Primarily woven by Ansari weavers and Hindu Karigars in Banaras, Uttar Pradesh. Some clusters in Surat (Gujarat) and Paithan (Maharashtra) also create Tanchoi variations
Geographic Spread: Uttar Pradesh: Varanasi (primary center).
Technique & Process:
1. Weaving Technique: Weft-faced satin weave using single or multiple silk yarns to create intricate motifs. Extra weft threads are woven without floats on the reverse, giving a fine texture and smooth finish
2. Panel Construction: Saree divided into panels with contrasting colors or motifs. Each panel is pre-planned with a unique design,floral, geometrical, paisley, or jaal patterns
3. Finishing: Smooth, lustrous surface with reversible motifs. No loose threads on the back, unlike brocade.
Notable Brands & Use:
Tilfi Banaras, Ekaya, Rohit Bal’s couture, and Taneira use Tanchoi for luxury sarees and panel dupattas
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Pure Banarasi silk, satin silk, or blended tissue-silk
· Motifs: Floral vines, paisleys, Mughal jaalis, lotus blooms, Chinese-style dragons or phoenixes (rare)
· Color Palette: Deep jewel tones: sapphire blue, ruby red, gold, emerald, wine, navy. Often used in dual or tri-color contrasts across panels.
Loom Type Used: Hand-operated Jacquard looms for complex panel layouts. Pit looms with extra shuttle mechanism for precision in motifs.