Origin & History
Kashmiri shawl with roots tracing back to the 15th century during the rule of Zain-ul-Abidin (Budshah). The craft flourished under Mughal, Persian, and later European patronage, becoming a global symbol of luxury by the 18th–19th centuries, especially prized in France and Britain.
Community & Practitioners
Sozni embroidery is practiced by Muslim artisans, predominantly men, who specialize in intricate needlework passed down through generations.
Geographical Spread
Primarily centered in the Kashmir Valley, especially in and around Srinagar, Baramulla, and Anantnag. It also extends to shawl-weaving centers in Ganderbal and Budgam.
Techniques & Materials
·Done with fine silk or cotton threads using double satin stitch, darning, and outline stitch.
·Entire motifs are embroidered by hand with no stencil , precision and symmetry are key.
·Sometimes combined with Tilla (gold zari) work for wedding or festive shawls.
·Fabric: Typically on Pashmina, Shahtoosh (now banned), and fine wool shawls.
·Palette: Earthy, muted tones like cream, beige, soft pink, black, and grey, with contrasting embroidery in red, green, gold, indigo, or multi-colored schemes.
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
Meena Bazaar, Ahujasons, Fabindia, Good Earth, Fashion Designers: Rohit Bal, JJ Valaya, Tarun Tahiliani, and Anamika Khanna have used Sozni embroidery in their couture lines.
Cultural Significance & Variations
Motifs: Badam (almond) and Paisley (butah) patterns,Chinar leaves, cypress trees, floral creepers, birds.
Variations:
o Sozni – refined hand embroidery.
o Tilla – metallic thread embroidery (often used in bridalwear).
o Kani Shawls – woven, not embroidered, but often mistaken for embroidery due to intricate patterning.
Paper Maché Embroidery – bold colored threadwork with outlined motifs resembling enamel or papier-mâché art.