Origin & History:
The Shantipur Cotton Saree originates from Shantipur town in Nadia district, West Bengal, with weaving traditions dating back to the 15th century. The region flourished under the patronage of Nadia kings and later, during the Mughal and colonial periods. Shantipur gained prominence alongside Dhaka (now in Bangladesh) for producing ultra-fine muslin-like cottons, and is part of the famous Bengal handloom weaving belt.
Artisan Communities: Woven traditionally by tant weavers, mainly from the Basak and Dewan communities.
Geographic Spread: West Bengal: Shantipur, Fulia (often grouped with Tangail sarees), Phulia, and Nadia belt.
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Fine-count cotton yarns (80s to 100s count); mercerized yarn often used. Often bleached white, or dyed in pastel and earthy tones
2. Design Drafting: Borders and pallus are pre-designed on graph paper (naksha), woven with dobby or jacquard attachments
3. Weaving (on pit looms or frame looms): Employs extra weft weaving for border and pallu motifs. Uses finer warp tension, which gives the saree a smooth, soft drape. Borders and pallus feature contrasting colors, stripes, checks, or floral vines
4. Finishing: Softened using starch and calendared to enhance fall. Sometimes pre-washed for a “crushed cotton” look
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: 100% fine cotton (sometimes silk-cotton blends)
· Motifs: Butis, floral vines (bel), diamond jaals, temple borders, and checks
· Color Palette: Earthy reds, indigos, whites, mustard, off-whites, and blacks with contrasting borders
Notable Brands & Use: Found in curated collections by Biswa Bangla, Tantuja, and Byloom