Origin & History:
Rogan work is an ancient surface embellishment technique that originated over 400 years ago in Kutch, Gujarat. The word rogan means “oil-based” in Persian. This craft was brought to India by Persian artisans and later adapted by local communities in the arid region of Nirona village. it was practiced in only a few Muslim artisan families and is today considered one of the rarest Indian textile arts.
Artisan Communities:
Practiced by the Khatri family of Nirona, especially the Abdul Gafur Khatri lineage.
Geographic Spread:
Primary location: Nirona village, Kutch district, Gujarat
Technique & Process:
- Rogan Paste Preparation: Boiled castor oil is stirred for over 12 hours and mixed with natural mineral pigments to make a thick, colorful paste.
- Application: The artisan dips a metal stylus (kalam) into the paint, then dangles it mid-air, using surface tension to draw onto fabric without touching it directly.
- Freehand Drawing: Designs are drawn with one hand, often mirror-imaged by folding the fabric in half.
- Drying & Finishing: The painted cloth is dried carefully and heat-fixed to retain the colors.
Materials & Motifs:
- Fabric: Traditionally done on dark-colored cotton, now also used on silk, khadi, and pashmina
- Pigments: Natural pigments mixed in castor oil base
- Motifs:Tree of Life, geometric patterns, flowers, birds, peacocksIntricate symmetrical designs, often with Mughal or Persian influences.
Notable Brands & Use:
Nirona: The only recognized studio preserving this tradition. Gaatha and Craftroots: Platforms promoting Rogan artwork as framed textiles and wall hangings