Origin & History:
“Phulkari” means “flower work.” Originating in 15th-century Punjab, it adorned women's shawls (Punjabi: chadar) and groom’s turbans at weddings.
Community & Practitioners:
Women of Jat, Ramgarhia, and Ravidassia communities stitched phulkari motifs into khaddar cloth.
Geographical Spread:
Widespread across both Indian and Pakistani Punjab; major hubs include Malwa, Majha, and Doaba.
Techniques & Materials:
- Stitches: Darning from the back (phulkari darya).
- Fabrics: Hand-spun khaddar (coarse cotton).
- Palette: Vibrant silken floss,red, orange, yellow on indigo or white.
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands:
Modern labels like Fabindia, Raw Mango, and Chola reinterpret phulkari in jackets, bags, and scarves.
Cultural Significance & Variations:
Subtypes:
- Bagh: Entire surface covered.
- Chope: Bridal gifting piece.
- Phulkari-A: Smaller motifs around borders.