Origin & History
Phoolpatti embroidery, also known as Phool Patti Ka Kaam, is a heritage textile art from It flourished during the Mughal and Nawabi eras.
Community & Practitioners
Phoolpatti work is traditionally practiced by Muslim and Hindu women from rural and semi-urban artisan communities. It was often a domestic craft, done by women at home to decorate bridal trousseaus or home linen. Today, a few artisan clusters in Aligarh, Etawah, and Farrukhabad still retain this skill, though it has seen decline due to lack of awareness and demand.
Geographical Spread
This embroidery style is concentrated in the Aligarh belt, including nearby districts like Etawah, Mainpuri, Farrukhabad, and Kannauj.
Techniques & Materials
- Appliqué Base: Small pieces of fabric (often silk or satin) are cut into floral and leafy motifs, which are appliquéd onto a sheer or cotton base fabric using hemstitches.
- Embroidery Detailing: Once appliquéd, the outlines and veins of leaves or petals are highlighted using simple stitches like stem stitch, running stitch, and satin stitch.
- Fabrics Used: Traditionally done on muslin, voile, or fine cotton, used for odhanis, dupattas, sarees, and cushion covers.
- Palette: White or light pastel-colored bases (off-white, beige, soft pinks)
- with contrasting bright appliqué pieces in red, green, yellow, or blue.
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
UP Handicrafts Board and SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association) have promoted small-scale revival.Good Earth and FabIndia have experimented with similar appliqué-based designs inspired by Phoolpatti.
Cultural Significance & Variations
Phoolpatti literally means “flower and leaf,” and the motifs reflect natural themes like roses, jasmine, marigold, mango leaves, and vines, symbolic of prosperity, femininity, and seasonal beauty.
- Local Rituals: Traditionally used in wedding ceremonies, dowries, and festive decor.
- Variations: Some variants use mirror appliqué, or combine with Farrukhabad block printing and Chikankari in multi-craft fusion pieces.