Origin & History:
The Patola loom is used in weaving Patola sarees, a rare and luxurious form of double ikat handloom textile from Patan, Gujarat. The technique is believed to have originated in Jalna, Maharashtra, and flourished under the Solanki dynasty (11th–13th century), when Salvi weavers migrated to Gujarat.
Artisan Communities:
The Salvi family of Patan are the custodians of the original Patan Patola double ikat technique. Also practiced by Vishwakarma and Rajput communities in parts of Gujarat and Andhra Pradesh (Bhoodan Pochampally variant)
Geographic Spread:
Gujarat: Patan (original double ikat), Rajkot (single ikat Patola). Telangana: Bhoodan Pochampally (inspired single ikat). Odisha: Nuapatna and Sambalpur (related ikat weaving styles)
Technique & Process:
1. Design Mapping: A graph paper blueprint is created for the full pattern. Warp and weft yarns are counted and marked according to the motif
2. Tying (Resist-dye Process): Both warp and weft threads are tied with cotton thread at precise intervals. Multiple rounds of tying, dyeing, drying, and retying are repeated for multi-color designs. Each color is dyed one at a time, starting from lightest to darkest
3. Weaving: The pre-dyed warp and weft are woven so precisely that the design aligns perfectly at the intersection. Weaving can take 4–6 months for one saree.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Pure silk (locally known as "Patola silk")
· Dyes: Traditionally natural dyes (madder, indigo, turmeric, marigold); now also azo-free chemical dyes
· Motifs: Geometric lotus, parrot, elephant, dancing women (nari kunjar). Flowers (paan bhat), double ikat diamonds, abstract patterns. Each motif often has auspicious or symbolic value
· Color Palette: Bold reds, greens, yellows, blacks, blues, and whites,all high-contrast and vibrant.
Notable Brands & Use:
Patola House – The Salvi Family (Patan). Rajkot Patola Art Silk Sarees. Taneira, Tulsi Silks, and designers like Gaurang Shah integrate Patola in couture.