Origin & History:
The Paithani saree originates from Paithan town in Aurangabad district, Maharashtra, dating back to over 2000 years. It flourished during the Satavahana dynasty and reached its golden age under the Peshwas of the Maratha Empire. Traditionally woven in real gold and silk, it is considered Maharashtra’s pride and a mark of royalty.
Artisan Communities:
Koshti and Padmasali weavers, primarily in Paithan and Yeola. Craft is inherited through generations, with skills transferred orally and visually.
Geographic Spread: Yeola (Nashik District) is now the primary center of Paithani weaving. Also practiced in smaller clusters across Aurangabad, Paithan, and parts of Nagpur.
Technique & Weaving Process:
1. Design Drawing & Graphing: Traditional motifs are first charted on graph paper for accuracy in replication
2. Tying & Dyeing: Pure silk threads dyed in vibrant shades using azo-free and natural dyes
3. Weaving: Weft (horizontal) threads carry the motif colors. Tapestry technique (interlocking or dovetail method) is used to create contrasting zari borders and motifs. No embroidery,motifs are woven into the fabric itself
4. Zari Use: Original Paithanis used pure gold and silver zari, now replaced by tested zari or silver-gold thread
Materials Used: Silk: Pure mulberry silk (warp), Charkha silk for weft. Zari: Gold/silver coated copper zari. Dyes: Traditional organic or acid dyes for vivid jewel tones (peacock blue, parrot green, magenta, etc.).
Designs & Motifs: Inspired by Ajanta frescoes and Maharashtrian temple art. Bangdi Mor (bangle-peacock), Narali (coconut border), Asawali (creeper vines), Lotus, parrots, fans, stylized peacocks, Pancharangi (five-colored) and Naari-Kunj pallus.
Loom Type Used: Throw-shuttle pit loom (horizontal handloom with pit for the weaver to sit below floor level). Special Jacquard or dobby attachments used for intricate borders and pallu motifs. Interlocking weft weaving technique for creating intricate patterns.
Notable Brands & Designers:
Paramparik Paithani, Karagiri, Gaatha, Taneira. Designers like Gaurang Shah and Neeta Lulla have promoted Paithani on global ramps