Origin & History:
The Morpankhi saree, named after mor pankh (peacock feather), is an ultra-rare traditional weave that originated in Mughal-era India, particularly in Banaras (Varanasi). Historically woven for royalty and temple offerings, it included real peacock feathers woven into the pallu or border.
Artisan Communities: Originally woven by Muslim and Hindu weavers in Varanasi’s Madanpura and Lallapura
Geographic Spread: Historically from Banaras, Uttar Pradesh
Technique & Process:
1. Silk Base Weaving: Katan silk or organza is woven as the saree’s base, often with zari
2. Feather Embedding (Historical technique): Small strips of sterilized, trimmed peacock feathers were interwoven using an extra weft technique or appliquéd post-weaving. Artisans positioned the feathers carefully, mainly on the pallu or border, supported by transparent silk threads.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Traditionally pure Banarasi silk, now also in organza, kora silk, or chiffon
· Color Palette:Regal tones: peacock blue, emerald green, gold, violet, magenta
· Loom Type Used- Handloom Jacquard or Brocade Looms.
Notable Brands & Use:
Rare collector’s pieces or textile museum exhibits may feature historical real-feather saree
Cultural Significance:
The Morpankhi saree symbolizes divine beauty, grace, and devotion. The peacock is sacred in Indian mythology, linked to Saraswati, Krishna, and Kartikeya and these sarees were considered spiritually potent and artistically elite.
Though real feather use is now discontinued due to wildlife protection laws, the aesthetic lives on in weaving, embroidery, and fashion interpretation. Today, Morpankhi sarees are prized for their unique motifs, storytelling value, and regal appeal.