Origin & History:
Leheriya, derived from the Rajasthani word leher meaning “wave,” is a vibrant tie-dye tradition dating back to the 16th century. It was first patronized by Mughal nobility and later became a popular identity symbol among Rajput warriors.
Artisan Communities:
Leheriya is practiced by traditional dyer communities like the Bhil and Rabari tribes in north-west Rajasthan, along with the Chhipa and Rangrez castes known for their expertise in natural dyeing.
Geographic Spread:
· Rajasthan: Major centers include Jodhpur, Jaipur, Udaipur, and Bikaner.
· Gujarat: The Kutch region has adopted Leheriya’s cousin, Mothra, a similar tie-dye technique with zigzag effects.
Technique & Process:
1. Fabric Folding: The fabric is diagonally rolled or folded in an accordion pleat style from one corner to the opposite end.
2. Tying: Threads are tightly tied at equal intervals to form resist lines.
3. Dyeing: The fabric is immersed in cold dye baths, often starting from light to dark hues.
4. Multiple Dye Baths (Optional): For rainbow Leheriya, the fabric is re-pleated and re-tied for each additional dye, creating multicolor wave patterns.
5. Untying & Washing: After dyeing, the threads are removed, and the fabric is washed, revealing wavy stripe patterns.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabrics: Cotton voile used for everyday wear. Silk chiffon, silk georgette, cotton-silk blends for festive and formal use.
· Dyes: Natural: Indigo (blue), turmeric (yellow), madder (red).
· Motifs & Patterns: Linear wave-like stripes, generally parallel to the fabric’s warp direction. Mothra (variant): Cross-folded for checkered wave patterns.
Notable Brands & Use:
Raw Mango, Fabindia,Anavil Blends Leheriya with earthy aesthetics in linen and silk-cotton sarees.