Origin & History:
The Kotpad Cotton Saree originates from Kotpad village in Koraput district, southern Odisha. It is one of India’s oldest naturally dyed textile traditions, practiced by the Mirgan tribal weavers. This heritage craft, which is at least three centuries old, is known for using vegetable dyes (especially Aul tree root) and hand-spun cotton yarn. It was the first Indian handloom to receive a Geographical Indication (GI) tag in 2005.
Artisan Communities: Woven traditionally by the Mirgan tribe in Kotpad. The Dyeing process is often done by the tribal women, while weaving is done by men
Geographic Spread: Odisha: Kotpad village and surrounding tribal belts of Koraput, Nabarangpur, Rayagada.
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Uses hand-spun coarse cotton yarn (20s–40s count). Soaked and softened with castor oil and cow dung for 4–5 days
2. Natural Dyeing (Vegetable Dyeing): Red/brown color extracted from Aul tree roots (Indian madder). Black from iron rust + jaggery fermentation. Takes 30–40 days for dyeing & fixing colors (traditional sun-drying method)
3. Weaving (on throw shuttle pit looms): Plain weave body with discontinuous extra weft for border/pallu motifs. No chemical finish,100% natural production. Texture: rustic, coarse, but softens with use
4. Finishing: Sarees are washed in river water and dried in the sun. No starch or synthetic finish used
Materials & Motifs:
- Fabric: 100% coarse cotton, hand-spun
- Motifs:Crab, fish, conch, boat, tortoise, snake, axe – all with tribal & ritual meaning. Pallu often features bold geometric tribal bands
- Colors: Earthy reds, browns, blacks, off-whites
Notable Brands & Use: Marketed by Utkalika, Tribes India, GoCoop, and Living Looms of India