Origin & History:
The Kodali Karuppur Saree originates from the village of Kodali Karuppur, near Thanjavur, Tamil Nadu. This rare textile tradition dates back to the early 19th century, during the rule of the Maratha kings of Thanjavur. These sarees were specially woven and painted for royal women. The technique blends hand-painting (kalamkari), block printing, and weaving, a rare combination that made it highly prized.
Artisan Communities: Weavers (Saliyar community) for the base cotton saree. Painters (Kalamkari artists) for hand-painting
Geographic Spread: Kodali Karuppur village, Thanjavur district, Tamil Nadu.
Technique & Process:
1. Base Weaving: Fine cotton sarees woven with contrasting borders, sometimes incorporating zari threads
2. Printing & Painting: Natural dye mordant block printing for outlines (using alum, iron, myrobalan). Kalamkari-style hand painting fills the motifs, often with a bamboo reed.
3. Dyeing: Dyed in vegetal dyes like indigo, madder (red), and pomegranate rind (yellow): Each color is dyed separately with resist techniques
4. Washing & Finishing: Multiple wash cycles and sun drying. Sarees are often lightly starched for a crisp drape.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Handwoven cotton or silk-cotton blend
· Motifs: Mythological and temple themes (Radha-Krishna, lotus, yali, creepers). Geometric grids, floral panels, and Gopuram-inspired layouts.
· Color Palette: Rich indigo, deep red, black, turmeric yellow. Often juxtaposed on off-white or beige base.
Loom Type Used:
Traditional pit loom, woven manually by experienced weavers. Border zari may be inserted using supplementary weft techniques. Painting and dyeing done post-weaving.
Notable Brands & Use: Revived and retailed by Kalakshetra, Dastkar, RMKV, and Co-optex