Origin & History:
Khimkhwab,meaning “a dream woven in gold”,is one of the most luxurious brocaded textiles of India. The term comes from Persian: Khim (little) + Khwab (dream), referring to the dreamlike richness of the fabric. Originating during the Mughal period in 15th–16th century India, particularly in Varanasi (Banaras), it was a royal fabric, reserved for emperors, queens, and nobility.
Artisan Communities: Masterfully crafted by Ansari weaver families and Brocade karigars in Banaras (Varanasi)
Geographic Spread: Varanasi, Mirzapur, Mubarakpur, and Azamgarh districts in Uttar Pradesh
Technique & Process:
1. Silk Warp Setup: Pure silk yarns are set up on pit looms for warp threads. Base dyed in vibrant colors (crimson, emerald, royal blue, black, ivory)
2. Zari Weft Weaving: Zari (real gold/silver-coated threads or metallic polyester) is woven as the weft using jacquard looms. Woven using cutwork, kadwa, or fekwa techniques (extra weft). Intricate patterns are created stitch by stitch, requiring weeks or months
3. Motif Inlaying: Elaborate Persian, Mughal, and floral motifs Borders and pallus often feature jhalar (fringes), minakari detailing, or paheli (double pallu).
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Base: Pure silk or satin silk. Weft: Gold zari, silver zari, or synthetic metallic yarns (for affordability). Occasionally includes cotton-silk blends for structural support.
· Motifs: Shikargah (hunting scenes), Jaal (netted florals), Chand Buta, Paisley, Mehrab, Ashrafi (coins).
· Color Palette: Jewel tones like ruby red, royal blue, peacock green, antique gold, black with gold
· Loom Type Used:Hand-operated Jacquard loom. Some traditional artisans still use Naka/Nawariya looms (precursors to modern jacquards).
Notable Brands & Use: Revived and used by Sabyasachi, Raw Mango, Ekaya, Gaurang Shah, Tilfi, and Meira