Origin & History
Originating in rural Bengal (now West Bengal and Bangladesh), Kantha was a form of functional embroidery used to recycle old sarees and dhotis into quilts or throws (Kantha = “patched cloth” in Sanskrit). It dates back over 500 years and reflects folk art, religious motifs, and domestic stories.
Sujani Embroidery:
Evolving from similar utilitarian traditions in Madhubani and Muzaffarpur (Bihar), Sujani (from ‘Su’ = easy & ‘Jani’ = birth) began as ritualistic birth blankets made by women for newborns, symbolizing care and spiritual protection.
Community & Practitioners
Kantha:Practiced by rural Bengali women, especially among the Rajbanshi and Namasudra communities.
Sujani:Created by Mahadalit women, particularly from the Musahar, Chamar, and Dom communities in northern Bihar.
Geographical Spread
Kantha:Predominant in Murshidabad, Birbhum, Nadia, and Bardhaman in West Bengal
Sujani: Practiced in Madhubani, Darbhanga, Muzaffarpur, and Sitamarhi in Bihar
Techniques & Materials
· Base Fabrics: Kantha: Layers of old cotton sarees or dhotis, now also used on silk, tussar, or mul cotton. Sujani: Base of natural cotton, usually white or off-white
· Threads Used: Traditionally threads drawn from old garments. Now replaced by colored cotton, silk, or mercerized threads
· Stitches: Running stitch is central to both. Also includes darning, satin, chain, and herringbone (in Sujani).
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
Designers: Anavila, Sabyasachi, and Gaurang have used Kantha in stoles, jackets, sarees, and home décor.
Cultural Significance & Variations
- Kantha:
- Reflects mythology, village life, flora-fauna, and female experiences
- Used in weddings, infant care, and as heirlooms
- Varieties include Lep Kantha (quilts), Sujni Kantha (coverlets), Baiton Kantha (wraps), Durjani Kantha (wallets), and Oaar Kantha (pillows)
- Sujani:
- Each piece narrates a story or social theme , empowerment, environment, caste, gender
- Motifs of women working, goddesses, trees, birds, and birth imagery are common
- It’s both artistic and activist