Origin & History:
The Kani weaving technique dates back to the 15th century in the Kanihama village near Srinagar, Kashmir. It flourished under Mughal patronage, particularly during Emperor Akbar’s reign. “Kani” means small wooden bobbins (called kanis), which are used instead of a shuttle. These intricate, tapestry-like shawls became prized collector items across Europe and Central Asia, often traded along the Silk Road.
Artisan Communities:
Traditionally practiced by Kani weavers (Kaniz or Sozni craftsmen). Knowledge is passed down orally and visually, often within family lineages
Geographic Spread:
Kanihama, Baramulla, and Sopore (Kashmir Valley)
Technique & Weaving Process:
1. Talim Design System: The design pattern (Talim) is written in a symbolic language known only to weavers. It indicates color sequences and the number of weft insertions per motif section
2. Weaving with Kanis: Colored threads wound around kanis are inserted manually across the warp. Complex patterns like paisleys and florals are created one line at a time, akin to pixel-art. The loom produces reversible designs with no wrong side
3. Time Intensive: A single Kani shawl can take 6 to 18 months to weave depending on the complexity
Materials Used: Fabric: Pure Pashmina wool (from Changthangi goats), Shahtoosh (historically, now banned) Dyes: Natural and azo-free synthetic dyes used. Tools: Kanis (hand-carved bobbins from walnut or deodar wood), Talim charts.
Designs & Motifs: Classic Kashmiri floral and paisley motifs dominate. Jaldar (net), Chinar leaf, Zebra stripe, Tree of Life. Patterns are often all-over (Jama) or border/pallu-specific
Loom Type Used: Vertical or horizontal handloom (Kani loom). Similar to tapestry weaving. No shuttle,instead, kanis (tiny wooden spools) carry the colored threads. Each motif is woven in sections, guided by a “Talim” (coded weaving pattern)
Notable Brands & Designers:
Pashmina.com, Ahujasons, Me&K, Meena BazaarDesigners like JJ Valaya and Ritu Kumar have worked with Kani elements
Cultural & Global Significance:
Kani shawls were gifted by Mughal emperors and traded as royal heirlooms. Registered under GI Act (India) to prevent imitations.Symbol of luxury, heritage, and diplomacy (often gifted to dignitaries).