Origin & History:
The Kanchipuram silk sari originates from Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, a historic temple town known as the “Silk City of India.” Its weaving tradition dates back over 400 years. The craft was brought by Saligar Brahmin weavers who migrated from Andhra Pradesh during the reign of Krishna Deva Raya of the Vijayanagara Empire (16th century).
Artisan Communities: Primarily woven by the Padmasali and Devanga communities.
Geographic Spread: Tamil Nadu: Kanchipuram, Arani, Kumbakonam, Salem
Technique & Process:
1. Silk Preparation: Pure mulberry silk threads are degummed and dyed using acid dyes. Zari threads (gold or silver-coated) sourced from Surat are used.
2. Three-Shuttle Weaving (on pit looms or frame looms): Body, border, and pallu are woven separately and then interlocked using the korvai technique, creating visible and strong joins. Highly skilled artisans use three shuttles, one each for body and borders, and one for the pallu.
3. Motif Weaving: Jacquard or dobby attachments are used for intricate designs.Techniques like rakku weaving ensure tight interlock of contrasting borders.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: 100% mulberry silk with high warp & weft density (double warp threads). Pure zari with gold/silver plating on silk or cotton base.
· Motifs: Inspired by temples (gopuram, yantras), nature (peacocks, lotuses, mangoes), and mythology (annapakshi, yali) Borders are typically wide with contrast colors and geometric checks or stripes.
Notable Brands & Use:
Nalli, RMKV, Pothys, Sundari Silks, Kanakavalli,luxury labels that retail authentic Kanchipuram saris. Designers like Gaurang Shah and Ritu Kumar have incorporated Kanchipuram silk in contemporary bridal couture.