Origin & History:
Ikat is a resist-dyeing technique where yarns are dyed before weaving, creating a distinct blurry-edged pattern on the final fabric. The term comes from the Malay-Indonesian word “mengikat”, meaning “to tie.” In India, Ikat has evolved independently in three main regions,Odisha (Bandha), Telangana/Andhra Pradesh (Telia Rumal), and Gujarat (Patola),each with its unique process and legacy.
Artisan Communities:
Pattusalis, Bindis, and Chitara weavers (Telangana & Andhra Pradesh). Chitiki Karigars and Bhulia Meher community (Odisha). Salvi community (Gujarat, known for Patola weaving)
Geographic Spread:
Gujarat: Patan (Double Ikat Patola). Telangana: Pochampally (Single Ikat), Hyderabad region (Telia Rumal). Odisha: Sambalpur, Bargarh, Sonepur, Boudh (Bandha Ikat)
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Cotton or silk yarns stretched on a frame
2. Resist Binding: Patterns marked and tied tightly with cotton thread (tie-dye method)
3. Dyeing: Yarns dyed in stages, with unbound areas absorbing color. Multiple dye baths for multicolor patterns
4. Weaving: Dyed warp or weft (or both in double Ikat) aligned carefully on loom. Designs emerge as yarns interlace precisely.
Types of Ikat:
- Single Ikat: Only warp or weft threads are resist-dyed (Pochampally, Odisha)
- Double Ikat: Both warp and weft are dyed and meticulously aligned (Patan Patola)
- Telia Rumal: Uses oily resist to bind yarns; gives softer feel and deep red/black tones.