Origin & History:
The “Gathua” loom** derives its name from the Hindi word “Gath”, meaning knots or tie-points, referencing its use in intricate extra-weft weaving,especially for zari and butidar textiles. It is a traditional handloom variant from Varanasi, historically used for weaving brocaded silk fabrics with rich motifs using a supplementary thread technique.
Emerging around the Mughal period, the Gathua loom became vital for Banarasi brocade and jamdani weaving, known for its high motif control without Jacquard cards. It's a rare, knot-controlled loom,still used by master weavers in the old lanes of Varanasi.
Artisan Communities: Predominantly used by Ansari Muslim weavers and Brahmin master craftsmen centered in Madanpura, Lallapura, and Khojwa areas of Varanasi
Geographic Spread: Exclusive to Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh. Few Gathua looms survive in towns like Chandauli and Mirzapur.
Technique & Weaving Process:
1. Base Weaving: Woven on a base of silk or silk-cotton blend. Ground weave usually in plain weave or tissue texture
2. Motif Formation (Gathua Process): Designs are woven using extra zari threads manually inserted into the warp at specific locations. Threads are tied (gathua) and lifted as needed using fingers and slim bamboo tools. Allows hand-controlled motifs like bootis, mango, floral vines, or peacocks
3. Finishing: Threads are pressed, cut, and flattened by wooden spatulas (khali). Washed, starched, and polished to bring out the metallic luster.
Materials & Fabric Types: Mulberry silk, cotton-silk, and tissue base fabrics. Zari threads (real silver-gold or synthetic). Final product: Banarasi brocade sarees, Jamdani dupattas, Shikargah panels, and bridal textiles
Design & Motifs: Heavy butidar motifs, ashrafi, kalga-bel, shikargah (hunting scenes), jal patterns. Borders often feature floral vines, peacocks, lotus, or mango paisley
Loom Type Used: Gathua loom is a horizontal handloom with a specialized wooden setup allowing manual insertion of extra-weft motifs. No Jacquard; instead, each motif is hand-controlled using the gathua knot system. Allows great flexibility for improvising designs mid-weave
Notable Usage: Used by brands like Ekaya, Tilfi Varanasi, and Meiraas for luxury Banarasi sari