Origin & History:
Discharge printing is a resist-based textile printing technique, It became widely popular during the late 19th and early 20th centuries in Europe and India for creating delicate patterns on dark fabrics, especially on Indigo-dyed cottons from Gujarat and Bengal.
Artisan Communities: Practiced by traditional textile printers in Rajasthan, Gujarat, and West Bengal
Geographic Spread: Gujarat- Kutch and Mandvi (Ajrakh discharge)
Technique & Process:
1. Fabric Preparation: Fabric (cotton/silk) is pre-dyed in dark shades,typically indigo, deep maroon, or black
2. Application: A discharge paste (with agents like hydrosulfite or thiourea dioxide) is applied using blocks or screens. Paste removes the dye from the printed areas
3. Fixing & Steaming: Printed fabric is steamed or heated to activate the discharge agent
4. Washing & Finishing: Color is washed out, revealing lighter or white patterns. Optional re-coloring or overprinting for layered effect
Materials & Motifs:.
· Fabric: Cotton, silk, modal, cotton-silk blends
· Colors: Backgrounds: Indigo, maroon, black, navy. Discharged area-: White, pale yellow, sometimes overdyed with new color.
· Motifs: Floral vines, paisleys, jaali patterns, geometric grids, temple border.
Notable Brands & Use:
Fabindia and Anokhi: Discharge-printed tunics, scarves, stoles. Kora India and 11.11/eleven eleven: Use hand-discharge in luxury pret collections. Studio Medium, Rouka, and Péro: Combine discharge with embroidery or hand-painting.