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Dharmavaram Silk Saree

Origin & History:

The Dharmavaram Silk Saree hails from Dharmavaram town in Anantapur district, Andhra Pradesh. Dating back to the early 19th century, it emerged under the patronage of local zamindars and has become a mainstay of South Indian bridal and temple wear. Often called the “wedding silk of the South”, its signature features include broad contrast borders, muted color tones, and rich gold zari pallus.

 

Artisan Communities: Primarily woven by Padmasali and Devanga weaver communities

Geographic Spread: Andhra Pradesh: Dharmavaram and surrounding villages (e.g., Puttaparthi)

 

Technique & Process:

  1. Yarn & Preparation: Uses pure mulberry silk and gold/silver zari. Pre-treated and dyed in deep, traditional hues. Zari is sometimes tested zari, with silk-core thread wrapped in metallic film
  2. Weaving: Woven on pit looms or frame looms, traditionally by hand. Known for interlocking weft weaving and double-shuttle technique for color contrast borders. Heavier and broader than Kanchipuram sarees, due to the density of weaving and zari use
  3. Finishing: Polished with gum arabic or starch to give it a rich, firm drape. Sarees are generally 6.2–9 yards, some with blouse pieces included

 

Notable Brands & Use: Offered by Pothys, Nalli, RMKV, and Handloom House

 

Materials & Motifs:

  • Fabric: Pure mulberry silk, zari
  • Motifs: Peacock, temple spires, lotus, elephant, kumbha (pyramid/triangular) border. Pallu typically features geometric symmetry, floral vines, and South temple architecture-inspired designs
  • Colors: Earthy tones like maroon, mustard, parrot green, ink blue, often with contrast borders.


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