Origin & History:
The Dhabla is a traditional coarse woolen shawl or blanket that originated in Kutch, Gujarat. It was traditionally worn by Rabari, Bharwad, and Ahir pastoral communities, both as clothing and bedding. The craft dates back several centuries and was closely tied to nomadic lifestyles and wool economies of the region.Over time, Dhabla weaving evolved into a fine art, especially in Bhujodi, a village now globally known for its weaver community.
Artisan Communities:
Traditionally woven by Vankar (weaver) community of Bhujodi, Varnora, Tunda Vandh. The Rabari and Bharwad communities served as main clients and patrons. Often involved collaboration with Khatris (dyers) and Ahir embroiders
Geographic Spread:
Bhujodi, Tunda Vandh, Bhachau, and surrounding areas in Kutch, Gujarat
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Traditionally hand-spun wool from local sheep, goat, or camel. Today, also use acrylic, cotton, or merino wool for softness and market demand. Natural dyeing done using madder, indigo, iron, pomegranate rind
2. Loom Setup: Woven on a horizontal pit loom. Ground pit in front of the loom allows leg movement for treadles. Weavers sit low and work with hands and feet for fine control
3. Weaving Process: Extra-weft weaving technique used for motif insertion. Each motif picked manually using thin bamboo sticks or needles. Motifs often symbolic: scorpions, peacocks, temples, or animal hooves. Some Dhablas also have mirrorwork or embroidery post-weaving
4. Finishing: Beaten with a wooden mallet to compact yarn. Brushed with a natural stiffener (often from arrowroot or wheat paste. Tassels or fringes added to ends.
Materials & Motifs:
· Yarn: Wool (sheep, camel), cotton, or blends
· Colors: Black, white, maroon, indigo, mustard
· Motifs: Geometric forms (lines, diamonds, stepped patterns). Tribal symbols and totems like the “vankor” (zigzag) or “sathia” (swastika)
· Loom Type Used: Horizontal pit loom, built from wood and stone. Allows use of extra weft and large pieces. Modified looms now support multi-shaft weaving for fine designs.
Notable Products:
Dhabla shawls (woolen): Originally large-sized, black or white, worn wrapped around. Modern adaptations: stoles, jackets, bed throws, cushion covers. Brands like Khamir, Vankar Vishram Valji, and Shrujan are preserving and marketing these products globally