Dye: Myrobalan (Harad) + Iron mordant
Color: Deep olive tones
Color Fastness: High (wash & light) on cotton, silk, and wool
A. Cotton Dyeing Procedure
Step 1: Preparation & Mordanting
- Material: 100 g cotton fabric (pre-washed)
- Mordant: Ferrous sulfate (iron mordant) 5% owf (5 g)
- Water: 2 L (M:L ratio 1:20)
- pH: Neutral (around 6)
- Temperature: 55°C (warm)
- Time: 45 minutes
Process:
- Dissolve 5 g ferrous sulfate in 2 L warm water (55°C).
- Add the pre-wetted cotton fabric.
- Maintain temperature and gently stir for 45 minutes for good mordant uptake.
- Remove fabric and rinse lightly with cold water to remove excess mordant.
Reason: Cotton requires thorough mordanting as tannins bond better to mordanted cellulose, especially iron for olive tones. Temperature ensures mordant dissolves and binds without damaging fibers.
Step 2: Dye Extraction & Dyeing
- Dye: Myrobalan powder 15% owf (15 g)
- Water: 2 L (same M:L)
- Temperature: 65-70°C
- Time: 75 minutes
- pH: Slightly acidic to neutral (5.5 - 6.5)
Process:
- Boil water, add 15 g myrobalan powder, simmer 30-40 minutes for extraction.
- Strain the dye bath to remove solids.
- Cool bath to 65-70°C.
- Immerse mordanted cotton fabric.
- Maintain temp with gentle agitation for 75 minutes.
- Remove fabric, rinse with cold water, dry in shade.
Reason: Cotton tolerates slightly higher dye bath temps, ensuring good tannin penetration and color depth. Iron mordant reacts inside fibers to form the olive hue.
B. Silk Dyeing Procedure
Step 1: Mordanting
- Material: 100 g silk fabric
- Mordant: Ferrous sulfate 5% owf (5 g)
- Water: 2 L (M:L 1:20)
- pH: Neutral (~6)
- Temperature: 50°C (lower than cotton)
- Time: 30 minutes
Process:
- Dissolve 5 g iron mordant in 2 L water at 50°C.
- Add silk fabric, gently stir for 30 minutes.
- Remove silk, rinse lightly to prevent excess mordant buildup.
Reason: Silk is sensitive to heat; lower temperature protects fiber integrity while allowing mordant uptake.
Step 2: Dyeing
- Dye: Myrobalan 10% owf (10 g)
- Water: 2 L
- Temperature: 60°C (max)
- Time: 60 minutes
- pH: Slightly acidic (~5.5-6)
Process:
- Extract dye by simmering myrobalan powder for 30 minutes, strain.
- Cool to 60°C.
- Submerge silk fabric, stir gently.
- Maintain temp for 60 minutes.
- Remove, rinse in cold water, air dry in shade.
Reason: Lower dye concentration and temperature preserve delicate silk while allowing tannins to bind with iron mordant for olive shade.
C. Wool Dyeing Procedure
Step 1: Mordanting
- Material: 100 g wool fabric (washed & dried)
- Mordant: Ferrous sulfate 5% owf (5 g)
- Water: 2 L (M:L 1:20)
- pH: Slightly acidic (5.5-6)
- Temperature: 50°C
- Time: 30-40 minutes
Process:
- Prepare mordant bath at 50°C, dissolve 5 g ferrous sulfate.
- Immerse wool fabric carefully, maintain temperature for 30-40 min with gentle stirring.
- Remove fabric, rinse with cold water.
Reason: Wool is protein fiber sensitive to pH and temperature; mild acidic pH and controlled temp avoid felting and damage.
Step 2: Dyeing
- Dye: Myrobalan 12% owf (12 g)
- Water: 2 L
- Temperature: 60°C
- Time: 60 minutes
- pH: Slightly acidic (~5.5)
Process:
- Simmer myrobalan powder to extract dye, strain.
- Cool to 60°C, immerse mordanted wool.
- Stir gently and dye for 60 minutes.
- Remove, rinse in cold water, dry flat in shade.
Reason: Wool needs moderate dye bath temp to avoid felting. Slightly acidic pH improves tannin binding with iron mordant, producing stable olive shades.