Origin & History:
Chintz refers to a glazed, printed cotton fabric originally made in India and exported to Europe as early as the 16th century. The name is derived from the Hindi word “chheent”, meaning “spotted” or “sprayed.” It gained immense popularity during the Mughal era, especially in Golconda and Coromandel coasts, where it was meticulously hand-painted and resist-dyed for elite markets in France, England, and the Netherlands.
Artisan Communities: Chhipa (printers) and Khatri (dyers) communities.
Geographic Spread: Coromandel Coast, Andhra Pradesh, Masulipatnam, Gujarat coast, Sironj and Burhanpur, Madhya Pradesh.
Technique & Process:
1. Fabric Preparation: Cotton bleached, soaked in myrobalan solution to absorb natural dyes
2. Drawing & Printing: Hand-painted with bamboo pens or woodblock printed
3. Mordanting & Resist Dyeing: Alum or iron mordants applied to fix reds and blacks. Wax or mud used as resist to create white patterns
4. Dyeing: Fabric dyed with madder red, indigo blue, turmeric yellow, and pomegranate peels
5. Finishing: Starched and glazed by rubbing with stone or applying rice paste for sheen
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Fine cotton muslin, mulmul, cambric
· yes: Natural dyes from madder, indigo, turmeric, myrobalan
· Motifs: Stylized florals, vines, pineapples, pomegranates. Persian-style paisleys and mughal butis. European adaptations included bird and fruit panels, toile-style layouts.
Notable Brands & Use:
Les Indiennes: Hand-blocked Chintz-inspired home linens in the US. Good Earth, Fabindia, Vayu India: Contemporary Chintz-inspired bedding and apparel. Rohit Bal, Sabyasachi: Incorporate Chintz motifs in luxury fashion collections.