Origin & History
Chikankari, often simply called Chikan, is a 400-year-old embroidery tradition that originated in Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, during the Mughal era. It is believed to have been introduced by Empress Noor Jahan, wife of Emperor Jahangir, who was fond of delicate white-on-white embroidery. The word "chikan" is derived from the Persian word 'chakeen', meaning delicate patterns on fabric.
Community & Practitioners
Traditionally practiced by Muslim artisans, especially women, Chikankari is now sustained by both male and female artisans
Geographical Spread
Chikankari is centered in Lucknow, often regarded as the hub of refinement and Nawabi culture. However, artisan belts extend into Hardoi, Barabanki, and nearby districts.
Techniques & Materials
Chikankari is one of the most labor-intensive and intricate forms of hand embroidery in India.
- Stitches: Over 40 distinct stitches are used, commonly:
o Bakhiya (shadow work)
o Phanda (knot stitch)
o Murri (rice grain)
o Tepchi (running stitch)
o Jali (netting)
o Keel Kangan, Rahet, Zanzeera
Fabrics Used: Light, breathable fabrics like muslin, mulmul, voile, georgette, chiffon, and silk.
Palette: Originally white-on-white (also called whitework), but now also done in pastels, neutrals, and even bold colors.
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
Designers: Abu Jani-Sandeep Khosla, Manish Malhotra, Anjul Bhandari, and House of Kotwara by Meera and Muzaffar Ali have popularized Chikankari on global ramps.
Cultural Significance & Variations
Designs: Inspired by Mughal architecture, Persian motifs, and nature,floral vines, mango, creepers, and geometrical jaalis.
Variations: Contemporary versions include sequin, mirror, and zari embellishments. Also fused with Kari, Mukaish, and Kamdani for bridal wear.