Origin & History:
The Chanderi saree originates from the town of Chanderi in the Ashoknagar district of Madhya Pradesh. This weaving tradition is over 1,000 years old, with records tracing back to the 11th century. It flourished under Mughal patronage and later became a favorite of royal families and aristocrats for its sheer texture and lightweight elegance. It holds a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for its unique weaving style.
Artisan Communities: Primarily woven by Koshti, Karigar, and Muslim weaver families in and around Chanderi
Geographic Spread: Centered in Chanderi town, and nearby villages like Bichhon, Pipliya, and Mehboobganj, Madhya Pradesh
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Uses fine mercerized cotton, silk, or silk-cotton blends. Yarns are dyed, dried, and softened using traditional starching techniques
2. Weaving: Woven on pit looms with the unique extra weft motif technique. The weave has a sheer, translucent quality owing to the use of untwisted yarns. Buttis (small motifs) are handwoven with zari or resham threads
3. Finishing: Sarees are pressed, starched lightly, and packaged without heavy polishing to retain their natural finish.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric Types:
o Chanderi Cotton: Crisp, lightweight, breathable
o Chanderi Silk: Sheer with a delicate sheen
o Silk-Cotton Blend: Most popular, combining elegance and comfort
· Motifs (woven using extra weft technique): Ashrafi (coin), Churi (bangle), Phool Patti, Kairi (mango), peacocks, lotus. Inspired by nature, Mughal architecture, and religious symbols
· Color Palette: Soft pastels, off-whites, and earth tones.
Notable Brands & Use: Featured by Raw Mango, Payal Khandwala, Taneira, and Gaatha