Origin & History:
The Chanderi loom traces its origins back to the 11th century in the historic town of Chanderi, located in Ashoknagar district of Madhya Pradesh. Once a prominent center of trade on the ancient silk route, Chanderi flourished under royal patronage,especially during the Mughal and Scindia reigns. The loom and its weaving technique evolved to produce ultra-fine, sheer fabrics, often compared to muslin in delicacy.
Artisan Communities: Primarily practiced by Koshti, Muslim Julaha, and Momin weaver communities
Geographic Spread: Chanderi town is the nucleus. Nearby regions include Ashoknagar, Mungaoli, and parts of Bundelkhand
Technique & Weaving Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Use of ultra-fine silk, cotton, or a blend (Sico). Zari (gold/silver yarn) prepared for motifs and borders
2. Weaving Process: Plain weave for the base. Buttis (small motifs) woven in the weft using extra weft technique. Borders and pallus have gold/silver zari patterns woven directly into the fabric
3. Finishing: Post-weaving, the fabric is washed, starched, and sun-dried. Ironed with traditional wooden tools or light press.
Design & Motifs: Ashrafi (coin), Paan (betel leaf), Churi (bangle), Kairi (mango), Meenakari peacocks, Pallus often have geometric, floral or peacock designs. Use of extra weft zari motifs gives a glowing appearance
Loom Type Used: Pit loom (traditional). Semi-underground setup with the weaver seated above a trench. Used for manual shuttle movement and tension control
Notable Usage:
Used in formal saris, dupattas, kurta fabrics, and stoles. Adopted by designers like Sabyasachi, Raw Mango, and Anita Dongre. Sold by brands like Fabindia, Gaatha, Okhai