Origin & History:
The Bomkai saree (also called Sonepuri saree) originates from Bomkai village in Ganjam district, Odisha, and later gained prominence in Sonepur (Subarnapur) district. This craft dates back over 600 years, blending tribal motifs with temple art aesthetics.
Artisan Communities: Woven by the Bhulia Meher weaver community of western Odisha.
Geographic Spread: Odisha: Sonepur, Bargarh, Ganjam, and Patnagarh
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Medium to fine count cotton yarn (60s–100s count) dyed with vat or azo-free reactive dyes
2. Weaving (on pit looms with extra-weft technique): Body is woven in plain weave or twill, while motifs are inserted using extra weft. Pallu and border feature traditional geometric or tribal designs, often contrasting in color
3. Motif Work: Designed manually without dobby or jacquard. Motifs are woven by inserting colored threads into the warp at specific places, requiring high precision
4. Finishing: Natural starch finish gives a soft yet crisp texture. Sarees are pre-washed, sun-dried, and neatly folded.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: 100% cotton, soft yet structured, ideal for tropical climates
· Motifs: Kumbha (temple spire), Machha (fish), Phula (flower), Chakra (wheel), Shankha (conch)
· Colors: Traditional base shades like black, red, maroon, and mustard, paired with vibrant contrasting pallus
Notable Brands & Use:
Sold by Utkalika, Boyanika, and platforms like GoCoop and Okhai.
Cultural Significance:
Bomkai cotton sarees represent the fusion of tribal craft and classical temple design, symbolic of Odisha’s dual identity. Lightweight yet ornate, these sarees are appreciated for their cultural motifs and are gaining global attention under India Handloom Brand and GI registration. The saree is also closely linked to Odia rituals and folklore.