Origin & History:
The Bengal Jamdani Cotton Saree is a direct descendant of the ancient Dhakai Muslin and Mughal-era Jamdani weaving tradition. Originally patronized by the Mughal emperors and Nawabs of Bengal, it was known for its feather-light cotton and intricate brocade-like motifs. Today, it stands as a proud bearer of UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage status.
Artisan Communities: Woven by Tanti, Basak, and Juliya weaver communities
Geographic Spread: West Bengal: Shantipur (fine count, geometric Jamdani), Phulia (floral Jamdani and blends), Kalna, Murshidabad, and Dhatrigram
Technique & Process:
1. Yarn Preparation: Super-fine handspun cotton (60s to 200s count). Soaked and starched for crisp texture
2. Jamdani Weaving (Extra Weft Technique): Supplementary weft motifs woven by hand, not loom-punched. Graphs or mental maps are used for intricate design insertion. Requires intense precision, can take weeks or even months per saree
3. Finishing: Sarees are starched and polished. Final product is lightweight, sheer, and breathable, often translucent.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabric: Fine cotton (malmal-like), occasionally with zari borders
· Motifs: Ashrafi (coin), Butidar (flower dots), Jhalar (floral vines). Traditional Mughal and nature-inspired themes: lotus, creepers, mango, hamsa, peacock.
· Color Palette: Classic white-on-white, red & black, indigo, gold-beige.
Notable Brands & Use: Promoted by Biswa Bangla, GoCoop, Sasha, and Byloom. Revived in modern fashion by Sabyasachi, Suta, and Tant Ghar