Dye: Indigo + Iron mordant
Color: Cool grey-blue tone
Color Fastness: Excellent durability due to indigo’s inherent fastness combined with iron mordant for grey undertones
A. Cotton Dyeing Procedure (Basalt)
Step 1: Pre-mordanting with Iron
- Material: 100 g cotton
- Iron Mordant: Ferrous sulfate 4% owf (4 g)
- Water: 2 L (M:L 1:20)
- pH: Neutral (~6-7)
- Temperature: Room temperature (~25°C)
- Time: 30 minutes
Process:
- Soak cotton in iron mordant bath for 30 minutes to allow iron to bind tannins in fibers and help develop grey tone with indigo.
Step 2: Indigo Dye Vat Preparation
- Indigo concentration: 10% owf (10 g)
- Reducing agent: Sodium hydrosulfite or natural fermentation (e.g., indigo fermentation vat)
- pH: Alkaline (pH 10-11)
- Temperature: 30-35°C
Process:
- Prepare a reduced indigo vat (natural or chemical) ensuring the dye is soluble (leuco form) for fiber absorption.
Step 3: Indigo Dyeing
- Temperature: 30-35°C
- Time: 10 minutes per dip
- Dips: Multiple dips (4-6) with oxidation in air between dips
Process:
- Dip iron-pretreated cotton into indigo vat for 10 minutes.
- Remove, expose to air to oxidize leuco-indigo to insoluble blue.
- Repeat dipping and oxidation 4-6 times until desired grey-blue depth is achieved.
Step 4: Rinse & Dry
- Rinse cotton in cold water gently to remove excess dye.
- Dry in shade.
B. Silk Dyeing Procedure (Basalt)
Step 1: Iron Mordant Pre-treatment
- Ferrous sulfate 3% owf (3 g)
- 2 L water
- Room temp, 20 min
Step 2: Indigo Vat Preparation
- Indigo 8% owf (8 g)
- Sodium hydrosulfite or natural vat, pH 10-11, 30°C
Step 3: Dyeing
- 3-4 dips, 8 minutes each, with oxidation between dips
Step 4: Rinse & Dry
- Cold water rinse, shade dry.
C. Wool Dyeing Procedure (Basalt)
Step 1: Iron Mordant Pre-treatment
- Ferrous sulfate 3% owf (3 g)
- 2 L water
- Room temp, 20-30 min
Step 2: Indigo Vat Preparation
- Indigo 8% owf (8 g)
- Sodium hydrosulfite or natural vat, pH 10-11, 30-35°C
Step 3: Dyeing
- 4-5 dips, 8-10 minutes each, with oxidation between dips
Step 4: Rinse & Dry
- Cold water rinse, shade dry.
Explanation & Reasoning:
- Iron mordant pre-treatment modifies the fiber’s chemical environment, producing a grey-blue shade rather than pure indigo blue.
- Indigo dyeing involves multiple dips to build color depth; air oxidation after each dip fixes color.
- Indigo dyeing requires alkaline pH and reducing conditions to convert indigo to soluble leuco-indigo for fiber absorption.
- Cotton tolerates higher iron and indigo concentration, wool and silk need gentler parameters to avoid fiber damage.