Origin & History:
Bandhani (from the Sanskrit bandh, meaning “to tie”) is one of the oldest known tie-dye techniques, dating back over 5000 years. Archaeological evidence from the Indus Valley Civilization reveals dyed fabrics resembling Bandhani. It flourished during the 6th century under royal patronage in Gujarat.
Artisan Communities:
Khatri community of Kutch, Jamnagar, and Bhuj in Gujarat are the primary practitioners. Rangrez and Chhipa communities in Rajasthan (notably in Sikar, Jhunjhunu, and Jaipur) also specialize in Bandhani.
Geographic Spread:
Gujarat: Jamnagar, Bhuj, Mandvi, and Ahmedabad. Rajasthan: Jaipur, Udaipur, Sikar, Barmer, and Jodhpur. Also found in smaller clusters in Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra.
Technique & Process:
1. Design Marking: The fabric is printed with dotted outlines of motifs using washable ink or a stencil.
2. Tying: Artisans pinch tiny dots of fabric and tie them with cotton thread, forming tight knots called “bheendi”.
3. Dyeing: The tied fabric is dyed in cold dye baths,starting from light to dark colors in multiple rounds if multicolored.
4. Re-tying (Optional): For multiple-color designs, the fabric is dried, re-tied in different areas, and re-dyed in successive shades.
5. Untying & Finishing: After drying, the threads are removed to reveal intricate dot-based patterns.
Materials & Motifs:
· Fabrics: Cotton, silk, gaji silk, muslin, and chiffon
· Dyes: Natural: Indigo, turmeric, madder, pomegranate rind
· Motifs: Dots (Bheendi), waves (Leher), flowers (Phul), diamonds (Kodi), elephants (Haathi), peacocks (Mor)Patterns include Ek Dali, Trikunti, Boond, Chandrakala, Shikari.
Notable Brands & Use:
Gulabo Jaipur, Brij Bali Designs, Rabaadi by Rahul Patel, Fabindia