Origin & History:
Bagru printing is a traditional hand-block printing technique that originated over 300 years ago in Bagru village, known for its vegetable dyes, mud-resist (dabu) technique, and distinctive earthy motifs.
Artisan Communities: Chhipa community (derived from “chhapna” – to print)
Geographic Spread: Bagru village, Rajasthan
Technique & Process:
1. Fabric Pre-washing: Soaked in harad (myrobalan) solution to make the fabric dye-absorbent
2. Mud Resist (Dabu) (optional step): A mud and gum paste applied to create resist areas, then sprinkled with sawdust
3. Block Printing: Intricately hand-carved wooden blocks dipped in natural dyes and pressed on fabric. Sequential layering for multicolor prints
4. Dyeing: Usually indigo, madder, turmeric, pomegranate peel used for coloring
5. Washing & Sun-drying: Final prints revealed after mud is washed off and fabric is dried in the sun.
Materials & Motifs:
- Fabric: Cotton, mulmul, silk blends (now also organic cotton & modal)
- Dyes: Natural dyes like indigo, pomegranate rind (yellow), madder root (red), iron jaggery mix (black)
- Motifs: Floral butas, leher (waves), jharokha (windows), patang (kites), bel (creepers). Known for symmetry, repetition, and minimal negative space.
Notable Brands & Use:
Cottons Jaipur, Anokhi, Fabindia: Pioneer brands in modernizing Bagru prints. Aavaran, Bunaai, Kaarigar Clinic, and Chhipa Prints: Artisan-led initiatives. Slow fashion designers (11.11, Naushad Ali, Anavila) incorporate Bagru in eco-conscious collections
Cultural Significance:
Bagru prints reflect the eco-conscious ethos of desert communities, water-efficient, handcrafted, and naturally dyed. The designs embody folk traditions, spiritual symbolism, and everyday storytelling through print.