Origin & History:
Ari embroidery traces its roots to the Mughal era (16th century), believed to have been brought to India by Persian craftsmen. The word ‘Ari’ is derived from the Hindi word ‘ari’ meaning hook, referring to the hooked needle used in the craft.
Artisan Communities:
Mochi community (originally cobblers) in Kutch, Gujarat. Rangrez and Mansoori Muslim artisans in Lucknow and Barabanki (U.P.). Rajput and Meghwal communities in Rajasthan
Geographic Spread:
Gujarat: Kutch (notably Bhuj, Jamnagar, Rajkot), Rajasthan: Jaipur, Barmer. Uttar Pradesh: Lucknow, Barabanki. Maharashtra: Some influence in Paithani finishing. Kashmir: Variants mixed with chain stitch
Technique & Process:
1. Fabric Preparation: The cloth (cotton, silk, velvet) is stretched tightly over a wooden adda (frame)
2. Design Transfer: Designs are traced onto the fabric using chalk or charcoal powder with perforated sheets (prick method)
3. Aari Needle Work: A special hooked needle (ari or tambour needle) is used. Artisans create chain-stitch patterns by pushing the thread through the fabric from below, catching it with the hook from above. Zardozi (metallic thread), sequins, beads, mirrors are often added
4. Motif Detailing: Dense, fluid, and curvilinear patterns. Work is often so fine it appears machine-made, but is entirely handcrafted
Materials Used: Fabric: Silk, velvet, cotton, georgette, chiffon. Threads: Silk, cotton, zari (gold/silver), resham, anchor. Extras: Pearls, stones, sequins, mirrors, beads
Notable Products & Brands:
Used by designers like Sabyasachi, Manish Malhotra, and Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla. Fabindia, Taneira, Gaatha curate Ari-worked collections.
Variants and Related Embroideries:
Often combined with: Zardozi (metal embroidery), Mukaish (metal dotwork from Lucknow), Mirror Work (Gujarat and Rajasthan). Tambour embroidery is the western adaptation of Ari, often seen in haute couture