Origin & History
Odisha (Pipli Appliqué):
Rooted in the 12th century, Pipli appliqué work was developed to create ceremonial canopies, umbrellas, and banners for Lord Jagannath’s Rath Yatra in Puri. The town of Pipli, near Bhubaneswar, became the dedicated artisan hub.
Gujarat (Kathiawadi Appliqué):
A traditional craft of the Kathi and Rabari communities, this version evolved from household needs,recycling fabric scraps into quilts, torans (door hangings), and dowry items. Influenced by folk beliefs, tribal lifestyles, and vibrant festivals.
Community & Practitioners
· Pipli:Practiced by Odia Hindu and Muslim artisans, often in family-run units. Today, organized through cooperative societies and state-supported clusters.
· Kathiawadi:Made by women of pastoral and tribal groups in Saurashtra, especially in Bhuj, Gondal, and Jamnagar districts.
Geographical Spread
- Pipli, Odisha – near Puri, Bhubaneswar
- Saurashtra region, Gujarat – Bhuj, Jamnagar, Gondal, and Surendranagar
Techniques & Materials
- Base Fabric: Cotton or canvas (Odisha), Khadi or local cottons (Gujarat)
Pipli Appliqué
- Materials Used:
o Colorful fabric pieces (often scrap) cut into motifs and hand stitched
o Mirrors, beads, and patchwork
o Backing fabric to enhance durability
- Stitch Types:
o Running, chain, satin, and buttonhole
o Zig-zag or folded-edge appliqué in Pipli
o Mirror-work insertions in Gujarat
Common Motifs: Odisha: elephants, peacocks, parrots, flowers, sun, chariots, Lord Jagannath symbols, Gujarat: geometric patterns, camels, cows, tribal dancers, traditional symbols.
Contemporary Use & Notable Brands
Odisha Pipli: Marketed through Boyanika, Utkalika, and Tantuja. Items include lampshades, bags, umbrellas, wall hangings, home décor, and festival tents
Gujarat Appliqué: Used by Designers like Kriti J, Bandhej, Ashdeen Lilaowala. Popular in torans, wall panels, skirts, duppattas, and jackets. Both styles are seen in fairs (Saras, Surajkund, Dastkaar) and export markets
Cultural Significance & Variations
- Pipli Work: Deeply religious, aligned with Jagannath culture. Symbolizes protection, celebration, and ritual opulence. Received GI Tag as "Pipli Appliqué Work of Odisha"
- Gujarat Appliqué: Integrated with marriage customs, folk festivities, and home decoration. Often combined with mirror work (Abhla Bharat) for sparkle. Known for bright contrasts, folk flair, and bold layouts