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Ajrak

Origin & History:

Ajrak is a block-printing craft dating back over 2,000 years in the Indus Valley region. Its name derives from Persian “ājrāq” (“dye”). Historically traded along the Silk Road.


Artisan Communities:

Primarily the Miyan community in Kutch: Muslim weavers and dyers who inherited Ajrak as a generational craft. Apprenticeships begin in childhood, passing dye recipes and block-carving skills within families.

Geographic Spread:

 Kutch district (Gujarat) , Bhuj, Hodka, Nirona villages.  Tharparkar region (Sindh, Pakistan)

 

Technique & Process (14–16 stages):

  1. Cloth Preparation: Cotton or silk scoured to remove sizing.

2. Resist Printing (Mordant Application): Apply a paste of oil, lime, and gum through carved wooden blocks to resist dye.

3. Dyeing in Indigo: Natural indigo vat; only the unblocked areas take the deep blue.

4. Alizarin (Madder) Printing: Apply a second resist paste, then dye in madder for red hues.

5. Lime-wash & Bleaching: Remove excess dyes and clear resist.

6. Multiple Repeats: Alternate red and blue printing, with black added by iron acetate mordant.

7.  Finishing Wash & Softening: Final washes to stabilize and soften the fabric.

 

Materials & Motifs:  Fabric: 100% cotton, silk.  Dyes: Natural indigo, madder, pomegranate rind, iron acetate

• Motifs: Geometric stars (“star of Lakha”), floral mandalas, “gaav” (village scenes), stripes.


Notable Brands & Use:

Natural Dye Studio (UK/Gujarat). Anokhi and Good Earth regularly feature authentic Ajrak textiles in apparel and home collections.


Cultural Significance:

Ajrak cloth is tied to Sufi rituals in Sindh and remains a symbol of Sindhi and Kutchi identity. Its GI-tag (2006)

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Morpankhi Sari